Houston – Houston’s culinary scene continues to shine on the national stage.
Pastry chef Vanarin Kuch, owner of Koffetera, a bakery and café nestled in EaDo, has put the city in the spotlight once again. Koffeteria was recently named one of the New York Times’ top bakeries of 2024, making it one of only two Texas bakeries to secure a spot. Chef Kuch, whose creations are inspired by his Cambodian heritage, his family’s journey as refugees, and the diverse culture of Houston, shared his journey with Houston Life Lauren Kelly and former Houston radio superstar Sarah Pepper. He also prepared the cafe’s famous Tamalwich. According to their website, it’s a griddle-fried tamale with Oaxaca cheese, Thai chili salsa, and crispy tostada served between two soufflé pancakes.
Reflecting on the moment he learned about the NYT recognition, Chef Kuch revealed it was both surreal and emotional, describing how he was flying to Wisconsin on Christmas Eve when the congratulatory messages started pouring in. With no internet access on the plane, he didn’t even know why people were texting him until he landed.
The name behind Koffeteria is very personal to Kuch as pays homage to his grandmother’s washeteria on West Gray. A Pink’s Pizza now occupies the spot. With 25 years of experience in the culinary world working in kitchens in New York and Chicago, Kuch returned to Houston with a mission. And that was Koffeteria -- which he calls his “love letter to Houston,” saying he’s “here to represent and show what he’s done.”
When asked about the differences between cities like Chicago or New York versus Houston, Chef Cook emphasized the city’s distinct vibe. “Houstonians don’t always know what they want—but when they get it, they can’t live without it,” he explained. For Kuch, creating is about anticipating needs and staying ahead of the curve.
Koffeteria is nothing like his past in fine dining, where he worked grueling 80-hour weeks. Koffeteria is a unique blend of bakery and fine dining elements that elevate Houston’s food scene.
Chef Cook has big plans for the future. “It’s about inundating the suburbs and teaching people how to eat,” he said, hinting at expansion and continuing his mission to share both flavor and culture.
Visit Koffeteria at 1110 Hutchins St. and taste their unique creations like Cambodian Elote Cornbread, Tamalwhich, or something classic like a Ham & Cheese Croissant with Everything Spice. Koffeteria occasionally rotates thir menu based on the season. Click here for their menu as of January 17, 2025.