Houston – At an age when most people are slowing down, John Toomey is still showing up. Every day, nearly without fail, the 97-year-old can be found at J-Bar-M Barbecue in East Downtown Houston, reading the Wall Street Journal, sipping coffee, and checking in with his staff- often with his loyal Labrador, Smokey, trotting close behind.
Toomey isn’t just a familiar face at the restaurant. He’s the reason it exists.
A retired Houston lawyer and University of Houston alum, Toomey spent decades building a respected legal career. But in his 90s, he decided to finally chase a dream he’d carried for years: opening a barbecue restaurant. In 2021, that dream became reality with the launch of J-Bar-M Barbecue.
Toomey’s passion for the pit started young; at 13 years old, he “borrowed” bricks from his neighbors to build a barbeque pit in his garden...and he’s still smokin’ today!
This week, friends, family, and fans gathered at the restaurant to surprise Toomey with a cake and celebrate his 97th birthday - an occasion made even sweeter by the sense of purpose and community he continues to inspire.
But while Toomey brings wisdom and vision, the restaurant’s newest addition is firing up the future.
Enter Arash Kharat, a seasoned pitmaster and proud Houston native who recently joined J-Bar-M to lead the kitchen and reimagine the menu. Kharat grew up in Alief and has cooked in some of Houston’s most celebrated kitchens, including Blood Bros. BBQ and Buffalo Bayou Brewing Co.
“Hospitality runs in my family, my dad was a chef, and I learned early on that good food brings people together,” Kharat said. “Mr. Toomey’s story really inspired me. It’s not every day you join a restaurant led by someone who followed his dream at 93.”
Now, Kharat is blending tradition with creativity, adding mouthwatering new specials to the lineup:
- Brisket pizzas with 72-hour fermented dough
- Cowboy cut ribeyes for Friday Steak Night
- Saturday crawfish boils with garlic butter
- Sunday barbacoa, slow-smoked in maguey leaves
J-Bar-M’s General Manager Hoffie Ferreira says Kharat is the perfect match for the restaurant’s values. “He brings not only skill, but heart. Just like Mr. Toomey, Kharat is passionate about the food and the people.”
As for Toomey, he has no plans to stop visiting the restaurant any time soon. “This place keeps me going,” he said with a smile. “And I’ve still got a few ideas up my sleeve.”
To honor Smokey-Toomey’s four-legged best friend and the restaurant’s unofficial mascot, J-Bar-M will be donating 50% of banana pudding sales from the celebration day to the Houston SPCA in Smokey’s name.
Because at J-Bar-M, the fire’s not just in the pit, it’s in the people.
📍 J-Bar-M Barbecue
2201 Leeland St, Houston, TX 77003
www.jbarmbbq.com | @jbarmbbq